Motorbike trip from Hanoi to Mai Chau: Thung Khe Pass and Northern Vietnam

Motorbike rider on mountain road in Vietnam

Sometimes all it takes is one look at the map to feel the call of the road.
That’s how my motorbike trip from Hanoi began — an unplanned little adventure through northern Vietnam.

I rented an old but reliable Honda Blade 110cc and decided to head where Hanoi’s noise fades into the mountains. I wanted to see what lay beyond the city — the hills, small villages, and rice terraces that everyone talks about when they mention the north of Vietnam.


🗺️ Route: Hanoi → Mai Chau

My destination was Mai Chau, a scenic valley surrounded by limestone hills and emerald rice fields — about 140 kilometers southwest of Hanoi along Highway QL6, passing through Hoa Binh.

The ride isn’t difficult, but it requires focus: winding roads, sharp turns, and an endless stream of trucks. The first stretch after leaving Hanoi is lined with roadside cafés and bustling markets.

After Hoa Binh, the road starts climbing. The views get better with every kilometer — green slopes, deep valleys, and the vast, mirror-like Da Reservoir, so calm it reflects the clouds.


🌉 First Stop — Cầu Sông Đà Bridge

A couple of hours in, I reached Cầu Sông Đà, a bridge spanning the jade-green Da River.
Fishermen sat right on the rocks below, and across the water, a small temple peeked through the trees.

I stopped for a while, just standing there, watching boats glide by slowly — the kind of quiet moment that stays with you.


⛰️ Thung Khe Pass — “The White Mountain”

The next part of the journey led to Thung Khe Pass, known among locals as the “White Mountain” for its chalky limestone cliffs. From the top, the entire valley opens up — and on clear days, clouds drift gently between the peaks.

It’s always a bit chilly up there. I pulled over for a cup of hot ginger tea at a roadside stall where women sell grilled corn and boiled eggs to travelers.

The air smelled of coffee and dust from the road, the wind warm and soft.
By sunset, the light dipped behind the mountains — beautiful, but also a reminder to slow down, as the evening chill set in.


🌾 Mai Chau Valley

Descending into Mai Chau Valley feels like entering another world — where time moves slower.
I stayed in Ban Lac, one of the region’s most famous ethnic Thai villages.

The traditional houses stand on stilts, with bicycles and rice stored underneath.
At night, soft music drifts from nearby homes, and everything feels peaceful.

I sat outside with a cup of tea, watching the mountains disappear into the dark. Nothing extraordinary — yet it’s exactly these small moments that make a trip unforgettable.
You won’t find this kind of calm in busy Hanoi — only here, with cicadas buzzing and the faint glow of village lights.


🌿 Culture of Northern Vietnam

The people of the northern mountains are different from city dwellers — calmer, friendlier, open-hearted. No one seems in a rush. Smiles are frequent, and help is offered even when words fail.

I remember an old woman selling dried bananas by the roadside. When she learned I was traveling alone, she gave me a bag “for good luck.”

It reminded me that Vietnam isn’t just about cities and beaches — it’s also about the quiet kindness of people living between mountains and clouds.


💧 The Way Back

On the return trip, I stopped by Go Lao Waterfall, not far from Highway QL6.
No tourists, just the sound of falling water and the scent of wet stone.

By evening, I was back near Hoa Binh, and then into Hanoi again — tired, but deeply content.
That night, I sat with a cup of tea, looking out at the city lights. Nothing special — and yet, it felt perfect.


Travel Tips

Route: HanoiXuan MaiHoa BinhThung Khe PassMai Chau ValleyLac Village (about 87 miles (140 km) one way)
Motorbike Rental: Flamingo Travel or Style Motorbikes in Hanoi
Stay: Ban Lac Village — homestays with delicious homemade meals
Navigation: Download offline maps (Google Maps Offline or Maps.me). Mobile signal often drops in the mountains.
Clothing: Bring a light jacket — even in summer, mountain temperatures can drop to 15°C (59°F) at night.


Why This Trip Is Worth It

Every journey like this is a reminder that travel in Vietnam isn’t just about destinations — it’s about the road itself: unexpected stops, warm smiles, and the taste of coffee on a misty mountain pass.

Sometimes you just need a motorbike, a map, and the courage to go — no plans, no expectations.

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