This article contains affiliate links. If you book through these links, we may earn a small commission — at no extra cost to you. This helps support the project.
Tbilisi is a city of crossroads, where East and West have met for more than fifteen centuries. Here, the scent of fresh bread from traditional clay tone ovens mingles with the aroma of sand-brewed coffee and spices drifting from the Meidan Bazaar.
Time in Tbilisi does not move in a straight line — it gathers in layers. As you travel through the city, you may find yourself standing on the futuristic glass bridge, looking down at the Kura River, once part of the landscape crossed by Silk Road traders. All around you, the Persian domes of ancient bathhouses, rugged medieval church walls, and monumental Soviet-era facades come into view. Tbilisi is a living city where imperial architecture, a deep-rooted wine culture, and ancient culinary traditions weave together into one captivating story.
Tbilisi Architecture: Grand Entrances and Hidden Courtyards
There is a secret rule in Tbilisi: if you see an open door in an old building, you have to look inside. Behind faded facades that have weathered the years, you’ll find what locals call the “soul of Tbilisi.”
“Italian Courtyards”: Experiencing Culture Through Everyday Life
The famous “Italian courtyards” are a unique architectural layer born where Eastern traditions met 19th-century European ambitions. In reality, their roots go back to Persian caravanserais — the historic inns of the East, where life revolved around a central, open-air common space. It is fascinating how this piece of the city’s Eastern culture now “hides” right behind the European facades of Old Tbilisi.
Despite the nickname, these courtyards have little to do with Italy itself. They got this nickname during the Soviet era, when local residents, inspired by the characters of Italian neorealist cinema, recognized something familiar in the loud, open, emotional world shown on screen. The theatricality of daily life—where every balcony serves as a theater box and the courtyard acts as the stage—created an instant association with Italy.
The “Italian courtyards” feel very different from the polished facades of the Old Town, the city’s modern districts, and Soviet-era apartment blocks. Instead, their character is defined by massive carved balconies and winding cast-iron staircases, which neighbors still use to pop over to one another for the latest neighborhood news. There is no room for closed fences here; everything is shared. Crisp white laundry dries directly over your head, while the clatter of dishes and the rich aroma of coffee drift out of wide-open windows. It is within these small, hidden corners, tucked away from the casual passerby, that you will experience authentic Tbilisi life blending generations together. They offer a glimpse of Georgian architecture shaped around everyday contact, shared space, and human connection.
How to Find the “Italian Courtyards” in Tbilisi
As you wander through the narrow streets of Old Tbilisi, especially in Sololaki or Chugureti, turn off the grand avenues and peek respectfully through any open archway. Just like that, you’ll find yourself right in the thick of Tbilisi’s living history.
The Grand Entrances of Sololaki
If the “Italian courtyards” are all about everyday local life, the paradniye — Sololaki’s grand entryways — reflect a former dream of elegance and status. In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, Tbilisi was a booming economic hub, and wealthy local merchants built mansions to compete with the elegance of Paris and Vienna.
Here are a few prime examples of these grand entrances to track down:
- The House at 27 Betlemi St: Its stained-glass staircase feels like a portal to another dimension. When sunlight streams through the colored panes, it paints the steps in such vivid hues that you feel as though you are standing inside a giant kaleidoscope.
- History Beneath the Paint: Inside the entryways along Machabeli or Tabidze streets, you can still spot delicate frescoes of angels or Alpine landscapes peeking through layers of old paint.
Turn your walk into a treasure hunt by tracking the details. Look for vintage wrought-iron door handles shaped like elegant hands, or the owners’ initials forged above the arches. If a door opens, step inside and pause. Take in the marble stairs and the ornate iron railings. A single doorway here hides a bygone era, and the locals you meet on the stairs often tell its story better than any guidebook.
How to Find These Hidden Treasures
Sololaki’s best-kept secret is that the most beautiful grand entrances often hide behind completely unassuming, heavy wooden doors. If a door is open, take a quiet look inside — many of these historic entryways are still part of residential buildings.
Ancient Churches of Tbilisi: Polyphonic Chants and Striking Antiquity
Stepping inside the churches of Tbilisi means entering another dimension. Here, fifteen centuries of history stand frozen in time. These stones carry traces of early Christianity, the Golden Age of Queen Tamar, and centuries of invasion, hardship, and renewal.
This architecture offers a sharp, beautiful contrast to the golden excesses of European Baroque. Instead of opulence, Georgia offers the raw, austere majesty of ancient stone. This is history in its unvarnished form — where weathered frescoes have survived invasions, neglect, and Soviet-era persecution.
While Tbilisi boasts many remarkable sanctuaries, the most iconic ones are undoubtedly:
Metekhi: The Cliffside Church of Old Tbilisi
One of the most iconic views in Tbilisi is Metekhi Church, which literally grows out of a sheer cliff overlooking the Kura River. Standing by its walls next to the monument of the city’s founder, King Vakhtang Gorgasali, it is easy to imagine the city as it might have looked centuries ago. These walls have been destroyed and rebuilt so many times that you realize just how vital this church was to Tbilisi’s residents over the centuries. It was always a city protected not just by the sword, but by faith.
Best Time to Visit
If you want to capture stunning photos of the city glowing in golden hues, arrive 1 to 2 hours before sunset. From this vantage point, you can shoot incredible panoramas of Old Tbilisi, with the Kura River cutting through the center of the frame and the ancient Narikala Fortress anchoring the opposite ridge.
If your priority is exploring the church without the crowds, the best time to visit is the first half of the day, starting at 9:00 AM.
Hours: The church is typically open to visitors from 9:00 AM to 8:00 PM.
📌 Google Maps: Metekhi Church
Anchiskhati: The Silence of the Sixth Century
If you want to dive even deeper into history, seek out the Anchiskhati Basilica hidden in the alleyways of the Old Town. Widely considered the oldest surviving church in Tbilisi, it dates back around fifteen hundred years. Inside, it is always cool, and light filters dimly through narrow arrow-slit windows. There are no bright frescoes here, only yellow tuff walls that witnessed the very era when Tbilisi was just becoming the capital.
What makes this church truly extraordinary is its unique acoustics, allowing you to hear ancient Georgian polyphony in its purest, most canonical form. These walls host one of the best male choirs in the country, performing chants based on incredibly complex ancient scores. Echoing off the centuries-old stones, the voices create a surround-sound effect that can move even visitors who are not religious.
Best Time to Visit
To catch the singing, come for the evening service on Saturday (usually starting around 4:00 PM – 5:00 PM) or the morning liturgy on Sunday (around 9:00 AM – 10:00 AM). During these hours, the church comes alive, letting you feel an atmosphere unchanged for centuries.
📌 Google Maps: Anchiskhati Basilica
Wine Cellars: Tunnels and a One-of-a-Kind Winemaking Tradition
In Tbilisi, wine follows you everywhere. But to truly understand it, you have to go underground. The city’s old neighborhoods sit atop an extensive network of cellars and tunnels where locals have been setting up marani — traditional wine cellars — for centuries.
The highlight of many Tbilisi wine cellars is the qvevri. These are massive clay vessels buried up to their necks in the ground, allowing the wine to mature in natural coolness. This ancient winemaking tradition is especially associated with Kakheti, where Georgians have been crafting this unique, authentic wine for around 8,000 years. Make sure to try the “amber” (orange) qvevri wine: it is a true symbol of Georgia, boasting a dried-fruit aroma and a bold, incomparable flavor.
How to Find Authentic Wine Cellars in Tbilisi
It is best to look for marani away from the main avenues, along the narrow alleys of the Sololaki neighborhood. Historic wine cellars are typically located in the Old Town, and you can spot them by the steep stairs leading down into a basement.
Here are a few prime examples of the most famous spots hosting tastings:
- Karalashvili Wine Cellar: One of Tbilisi’s most atmospheric 200-year-old cellars. Here, you can see real qvevri and taste wines produced by a family dynasty using ancient methods.
📌 Address: 19 Vertskhli (Silver) St. - Laliashvili’s Wine Cellar: An authentic family marani, where tastings frequently turn into a traditional Georgian feast complete with polyphonic singing.
📌 Address: 4 Kvaleti dead end.
How to Book a Wine Tasting
If you prefer not to wander into various cellars hoping to catch a tour on the spot, it is best to book your tasting in advance: at least one day ahead on weekdays, or a few days in advance if you plan to visit over the weekend.
Abanotubani: Hot Springs and Heart of the Capital
If Tbilisi’s wine cellars are the soul of Georgian hospitality, the Abanotubani neighborhood is the very heart of the capital. According to legend, it was here that hot sulfur springs bubbling up from the earth inspired King Vakhtang Gorgasali to found the city.
Much like the traditional wine marani, Tbilisi’s baths are built underground, keeping the outside cool while trapping the healing heat within. Their architecture blends Persian influences with local brickwork, creating the distinctly oriental atmosphere that once captivated writers such as Pushkin and Dumas.
📌 Google Maps: King Erekle’s Sulfur Bath
After the Baths: Wine, Food, and Slow Recovery
In Old Tbilisi, a visit to the bathhouse was never just about washing. It was a social ritual that often ended in a neighboring dukhani (tavern). After the hot sulfur water and a vigorous massage, it was customary to descend into a cool, vaulted basement to restore your strength with an unhurried meal and a couple of glasses of chilled wine.
Leghvtakhevi Waterfall: A Short Stroll and Beautiful Photos
Be sure to walk over to the 72-foot Leghvtakhevi Waterfall, hidden in the canyon directly behind the sulfur bathhouses. It is a popular spot for post-bath strolls and photo shoots, and the area lights up beautifully in the evening. Despite the sulfur springs nearby, the waterfall itself is fresh water.
📌 Google Maps: Leghvtakhevi Waterfall
Mtatsminda: Tbilisi from a Bird’s-Eye View
To end your first encounter with Tbilisi on a high note, take the funicular up to Mtatsminda around sunset. From a bird’s-eye view, the city looks like a precious carpet, where ancient church domes stand side by side with futuristic bridges. Grab a glass of the legendary Lagidze lemonade, watch the city lights flicker on below, and you will feel it: Tbilisi has welcomed you.
📌 Google Maps: Mtatsminda Mountain
Why Your Journey Only Begins Here
Tbilisi is merely the front door to your journey through Georgia. In this city, you will learn to slow down and notice beauty in the cracks of ancient stone. But to see the “real” Georgia, you must leave the bustling capital behind and head east.
In the next article:
We will travel to the Alazani Valley, where vineyards stretch toward the snow-capped Caucasus and winemaking traditions reach back thousands of years. Kakheti awaits us — the cradle of world wine, a region where history is kept not in books, but in giant clay vessels hidden deep underground…
Useful Links & Official Sources
Below are some essential websites for tracking transportation schedules and finding the best flights to Georgia:
Georgian Railway:
https://www.railway.ge
The official website for Georgia’s national rail system. Check schedules and book train tickets if you plan on heading out to Batumi or exploring other regions of the country.
The Best Way to Find Flights to Tbilisi:
https://aviasales.ge
A comprehensive and user-friendly platform to search for flights, compare direct routes from various airlines, and securely book your travel to Tbilisi.
